Darker Skin Types and Hair-removal (depilation) using Lasers

Lasers of yesteryear were not made for dark skin types (or for those with hair of a lighter colour than their skin).  Indeed, it was strongly advised to use lasers on those with the fairest of skin colours and the darkest of hair, in order to minimize the risk of pigmentation issues and burns.

Top-of-the-range lasers, such as Candela Medical’s GentleMax Pro which we have at Ignite Medispa®, utilize different laser types, some of which penetrate deep into the skin.  For example, the Nd:YAG laser (1064 nm wavelength) may be used with relative safety in darker skin types.

Of course, whilst technology has advanced, there are still are number of things that ought to be considered in order to minimize (as different from preventing) risk when using lasers for hair removal, particularly in darker skin types:

Consider patch testing (in a less visible area that is as close as possible to the area to be treated, e.g. behind the ears if treating the face);
Avoid using strong acids (AHAs, e.g. glycolic acid , and BHAs, e.g. salicylic acid) in the week running up to the laser treatment;
Consider discussing with the doctor any protocols involving topical steroids (e.g. 0.5% or 1% hydrocortisone) in combination with aloe vera, in the after-treatment phase;
Avoid traumatizing procedures, such waxing, and also sun-bathing, for at least two weeks after the laser treatment.  ‘Physical’ sun-screen (ideally based on zinc) should also be religiously used during that period.

Should significant post-laser-treatment inflammation occur causing hyperpigmentation (dark spots), then a combination of hydroquinone, tranexamic acid, and azelaic acid (Finacea gel) may be used.  Some advocate the use of intravenous and transcutaneous ascorbic acid, in such situations, too.

It is important to be honest and compliant and, above all, logical, reasonable, and realistic with expectations and the balance between risk and reward.